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Michael's in Santa Monica still looks like 1979, but it tastes very 2017

Ken Frank, Mark Peel, Billy Pflug, Nancy Silverton, Jonathan Waxman, Kazuto Matsusaka, Gordon Naccarato and Sally Clarke came out of its kitchen. The Manhattan branch of Michael’s has been a media power-lunch spot for decades. Still, when I reviewed the Santa Monica restaurant in 1997, I regarded it as a nostalgia play, a place to stop by for shad roe in season, a nice Cabernet, and excellent aged shell steak with fries. Several years before that, I was already marveling that the squab with raspberry vinegar and the pasta with grilled seafood and Chardonnay cream were basically unchanged from the restaurant’s first months, and that its rather formal cooking might be a relic at a time when the best new restaurants seemed to be serving rustic Italian cuisine. With the exception of Sang Yoon, who left Michael’s in 2000 to start Father’s Office, it is hard to think of another chef the kitchen has produced in the last 20 years. Then Thompson signed on as chef. The waitstaff leans more art school than prep school these days. Sommelier Roni Ginach introduced a slew of natural wines onto the list. The signature dessert is a light, creamy fluff flavored with roasted barley.

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